Most of us don't "go looking for problems," but if you are considering buying a vintage acoustic guitar, it is best to recognize any problems or potential problems before the purchase. In my post of two weeks ago, Why Buy Vintage?, I noted some good reasons to buy vintage guitars (guitars that were made between the mid-1920's and about 1970). Now let's consider how to buy such guitars wisely.In the previously mentioned post, I noted that there are two kinds of vintage instrument buyers: the collector and the player. The collector of vintage guitars, like the collector of anything, is looking for examples from specific time periods--examples that are as pristine as possible with original everything: original finish, bindings, inlay, tuners, fretboard, frets, bridge, bridgepins, etc.--all with the original case if possible. The player of vintage guitars is not so concerned with whether everything is original, but seeks vintage guitars because of the sound. Through the aging of the wood and the vibrations over many years of playing, the sound of a vintage acoustic guitar opens up into something quite wonderful. There are some players who are also collectors. They are concerned with issues of both playability and collectability. This article is written from the viewpoint of the player, not the collector. The problems discussed will not be about problems with cosmetic appearance, or about whether or not parts are original, but rather, things that may affect the structure and stability, and therefore the playability of the instrument.
This brings us to our first consideration. If you're sizing up an old guitar with the intention of possibly buying it, one of the first things you might notice is that there are fine cracks in the finish, running in all different directions. Are these finish cracks problematic to the playability or sound of the guitar? The answer is no. This is called "checking," something quite common to vintage guitars. Checking is the result of the temperature and humidity changes the instrument has been through. This affects the appearance only and even collectors put up with these cracks. I am actually quite fond of them myself. These little cracks say, "Look! Vintage!" And here is some good advice for anyone who owns a vintage guitar: Never refinish a guitar that still has the original finish, even if it heavily checked and all scratched and dinged up, to boot. Stripping and refinishing a guitar not only lessens its value, but also its uniqueness. The only conditions under which an old guitar should be refinished would be if the instrument has been damaged very severely or if it has already been refinished poorly.
Cracks that are actually in the wood are another matter entirely. Any separation in the wood of the top, back, or sides of the instrument should be taken seriously as they might cause the instrument to be unstable. Such separations might not be visible under normal conditions. In a dark room, put a flashlight inside the guitar and inspect the entire outside of the instrument.
This would be a good time to mention that buying an instrument online is not a good idea unless you are prepared for the worse case scenario. The previously mentioned cracks, as well as braces that are broken or coming apart, are all things that may not be mentioned in the description by the seller. It is not necessarily that seller is deceitful. Sellers often have no idea that there are problems with the instruments they are selling.
One of the most common features of a vintage acoustic guitar is a "bellying" of the top. Over the years, the tension of the strings will pull on top and cause it to raise, forming a slight bulge on which the bridge is the highest point. If the action of the guitar is satisfactory, there may be nothing to worry about. However, if the bridge has been shaved, or if the saddle has been drastically shortened to get the action where it needs to be there may be problems with playing and with intonation. When it comes out of the factory, the bridge on a steel-string acoustic guitar is usually about 1/4 to 5/16 of an inch high, with the saddle protruding about an eighth of an inch above the saddle. If the action can be made satisfactory without deviating too far from these specs, everything should be fine. If not, a neck reset may be required--a very expensive procedure. Also, you'll want to make sure the bridge is not separated from the top. See if you can slide a thin, but stiff piece of paper under the bridge at any place. If you can, the bridge is probably in the process of lifting and may need to be re-glued.
If there is no reinforcing truss rod in the neck, bowing of the neck is common. This can sometimes be alleviated by having the fretboard leveled and re-fretted. Or, you may have to have the neck steamed and clamped to re-straighten--and the problem will probably reappear unless you have a truss rod installed.
So, these are some of the things to look for when considering purchasing a vintage acoustic guitar. These problems should not necessarily discourage you from buying the instrument--you just want to make sure you can recognize the problems and potential problems and factor them into your decision. I've purchased some vintage instruments that have had to drastically overhauled, yet the end results have been quite pleasing. All in all, vintage acoustic guitars provide a rewarding experience to the guitar player.
